A few kilometers from the city of Reggio Calabria, traveling along the Ionian coast near Melito di Porto Salvo, you can spot the rocky outcrop of Pentedattilo, a historic village as picturesque as it is fascinating, which captured my curiosity from the very first moment I heard about it.

It is precisely when arriving at the point where cars can park that the view of this majestic rock formation, with its distinctive shape resembling five fingers, enchants me with all its mysterious charm. I walk up on foot until I reach the center of the village, happy to have chosen this itinerary and eager to discover a bit of its history and secrets.

I am warmly welcomed by Giusina, who loves this place and loves her work. Later, I will ask her to show me her workshop where she carves wood and crafts handmade soap, because I enjoy discovering these small realities devoted to the revival and enhancement of abandoned villages.

As I wander through the center, I meet the few people who live here during the day, helping to keep this small and wonderful village alive, one that truly deserves to be preserved.

It is here that I meet Daniela, a kind person who has been living here for several years. She creates beautiful macramé pieces and, with her own hands, crafts wonderful artistic works.

I am fascinated by her calmness and by the peaceful rhythm of a life she has chosen in a village that might seem forgotten at first glance, but which, thanks to people like her, blossoms again with life.

Daniela shows me her lovely artisan workshop and offers me coffee in her small home above the shop. It is a house that feels simple and essential, yet it vibrates with a deep sense of inner peace. From the large terrace there is a magnificent view stretching all the way to the Ionian Sea, and all around there is silence.

Luckily for me, I had the chance to visit the ruins of the Castle of Pentedattilo during a special excursion guided by an archaeologist from Reggio Calabria, a deep expert in the history of the castle. During the visit, the story of the massacre of the Alberti family also emerged, a tragic event that later made me want to learn more through the reading of a book written by a Calabrian historian, who drew from the only ancient manuscript describing the dramatic events that took place on the evening of April 16, 1686.

I did not limit my visit to a single day. I deliberately chose to fully experience Pentedattilo by staying overnight in a renovated rural house, comfortable and welcoming.

I had dinner on the terrace at the home of one of the two women who live in the village. The atmosphere was very convivial, filled with simplicity and the authentic flavors of rural cuisine. I appreciated everything, especially the unique taste of goat cheese and homemade cured meats.

At night, Pentedattilo falls asleep among the dark silhouettes of its houses. All around there is silence, while just a few kilometers away life continues, lively during the summer evenings.

It was wonderful to have been here and to have lived this experience, even if only for a short time. I wonder what it feels like during the mild days of autumn, when the air, no longer heavy with intense heat, allows you to clearly see the sea and the summit of Mount Etna.

I truly believe I will return.

#Calabria

Text and photos by Rita Levis.